Another “wow” morning. Today’s route followed the walking route almost precisely for large parts of the day. A hugely varied day with classic Tuscan views in the morning to volcanic lakes in the afternoon.

• 67.7km, 1343m climb

• 5h 17m moving, 7h 46m elapsed

• 59% off-road, Mist turning to sun, 18°C average, 28°C max

Highlights

• The bar right by the east gate on the way out of town. Bar Enoteca La Stella. Very small and friendly. Perfect for a morning coffee.

• It was difficult to cycle far without stopping to take in the view this morning. The descent from Radicofani is on the ridges between valleys and today I was above the mist for most of the way. It creates amazing scenes.

• When I got into the valleys the mist returned, and then climbing out of the mist you get amazing views back to Radicofani.

• Morning coffee today was in Proceno. Of the many amazing Italian cafe owners/workers, this lady was perhaps the nicest. The cafe is very cycle and Via Francigena orientated and she was very keen to bring the coffee and pastry out to me. There’s a good place to pump up bike tires etc. here too.

• San Lorenzo Nuovo. A town from the 1700s with a completely different feel from the usual Italian “old” towns on the Via Francigena. Sitting in a great position on the rim of the crater lake, it feels like you’re on a Spaghetti Western movie set. The main square, allegedly based on Amelienborg in Copenhagen, is a great place for a quick coffee.

• The first views of the crater lake.

• The best food I had in Italy was at I Sapori del Castello in Bolsena. October is porcini time in Italy, and many places were selling dishes based on this amazing mushroom. My Italian isn’t great but I remember overhearing a conversation in San Quirico where one guy asks the other where he found the porcini… and the other just replies “the woods”… not wanting to give away the exact location. Today I had porcini tagliatelle and it was sublime.

• The constant views of the crater lake between Bolsena and Montefiascone.

• Montefiascone was great. I especially liked the square and cafe in the middle of the old town. After all the old “Italy” it was again refreshing to find 1930s architecture in the middle of the old town. Great coffee and pastries at Il Caffè too.

• Worth a walk around the town especially the small park at the very top.

Lowlights

• Acquapendente didn’t inspire much. The cycle route and walking path both pass down what to me was a busy side street. Narrow, grey and full of cars. I didn’t bother to look around more; there’s no doubt a good side to the town.

• Some of the trails on the side of the crater lake going out of Bolsena are pretty hardcore on a gravel bike; nothing like my escapades in the Alps but still requiring a bit of carrying and pushing.